Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Trip #31: Moab 4x4, Dead Horse SP & Canyonlands

October 9 – 15, 2010
MOAB 4x4, UTAH'S DEADHORSE STATE PARK & CANYONLANDS 
Elev 5500  Low 40  Hi 71
207 miles
Left on a Saturday morning for Moab to do some slickrock 4x4 with some of the Touareg gang, who drove in from Denver, Lubbock and Las Vegas. Arrived early enough, about 2:30, to hop over to Arches to hike Delicate Arch one more time (#3). Perfect day, cool enough to enjoy it and though crowded somehow we hiked alone most of the time. It’s only 1.5 miles, up it’s all up and well worth the trek. While leaving the park got a cell call from the gang to come over for dinner. The ladies fixed a delicious steak dinner accompanied by their garden fresh vegs, excellent. Set departure for 9am; I’m trying to get out of going but they all assure me it’s not that bad, even though the books rate Fins & Things “DIFFICULT.”

Sunday – ok ok I decided to go – it was Sunday and no one would be working anyway and the weather was just perfect so I went along. It was an all-day crawl – from about 9:30 ‘till 5. A very careful group -- everyone was spotted through difficult areas, which always looked worse than they actually were (but then I wasn't IN the car). If I didn’t like something I’d jump out and take the pics. That worked out. Amazing what the car can do on climbs and angles. Back at the house we had another delicious dinner, Texas-style.

Monday – This day I sat it out while they did Dome Plateau. Bill said it wasn’t as action packed but they saw a lot more – an arch, a cave spring, a miner’s house and an overlook. They didn’t get back until after 6. Meanwhile, I rode the bike 3 miles to town and did some shopping and came back to find work waiting for me so that was good. Perfect timing. Back to the house for burger night. Glad these ladies like to cook. Don’t know where they find the energy after all day on those trails. I was exhausted that first day.

Tuesday – Time to move on to Dead Horse State Park. Provisioned at City Market and on the road by 11am., with only 30 miles to the next spot. Had reserved site #4 in this small campground with electricity about .25 miles from the visitor center. Got out the bikes and rode to the overlook – that was a challenge – had some hills to keep pace on. Heart was tickin’ like a rabbit. We’re not endurance bikers. Or hill bikers. We’re flat Florida bikers.  Great overlook but unfortunately it was a bit hazy but took lots, no TONS, of shots anyway. Went back later for the sunset with some margaritas. Days in the high 60s and nights maybe the low 40s, good weather.

Wednesday – This day we went next door to Canyonlands to drive all the overlooks. Did some short hikes, such as the Mesa Arch and watched the ravens and swallows zooming around; 1.5-mile Aztec Butte hike to see a grainary, and the Upheavel Dome overlook, then on down to Green River overlook, and then the Grandview Point. Enough views already. Then a trip to the visitor center for a stamp and check on the Shafer Trail only to find out Mineral Bottom had washed out  big time in August. It is closed and will cost $3 million to fix, maybe start next year. Did the 4x4 drive down Shafer to the bottom, then back up again. Came back and wanted to do a short bike ride, but first I had to do a little work, then off on bikes .25 mile downhill toward the visitor center for an easy ride on the Intrepid trail, and it was so much fun we decided to do the Pyramid Overlook Trail, which got a little tougher. And of course we forgot water. It was a fun and challenging (to us – have you read anything about us mountain biking on this blog??) 4-mile ride, without helmets. And very fortunately neither of us hit the dirt. Made it back, tired and very thirsty. Watched some videos and call it a night, heading back tomorrow.

For a slideshow of more 4x4: http://s1186.photobucket.com/albums/z362/bntreg4x4/Moab%2010-10/?albumview=slideshow 

Area Info: The U.S. Department of Energy has started a project to move 16 million tons of uranium tailings from the banks of the Colorado River, near the city of Moab, to a permanent disposal site 30 miles north, near the town of Crescent Junction. This project is called the Moab Uranium Mill Tailings Remedial Action (UMTRA) Project. And we were camping right next to it. The Moab Tailings Project Site is located approximately 3 miles northwest of Moab in Grand County, Utah, and includes the former Atlas Minerals Corporation (Atlas) uranium-ore processing facility. The site encompasses 439 acres, of which approximately 130 acres is covered by a uranium mill tailings pile.

Just because everyone else went down this road doesn't mean you have to. Oh yes, it does.

No really, I'll walk up this one.

Sure, go ahead. I'll be over here.


Cars of uranium tailings? The Moab Project is currently shipping two trains a day Monday through Friday. The length of each train is up to 26 railcars, each holding four containers. During the month of November 2009, about 110,000 tons of tailings were shipped to Crescent Junction for disposal for a total of about 540,000 tons.

Who goes to a place like this ON PURPOSE???
Resting up after the big climb.

A little human perspective. That would be me.

Colorado River at Gooseneck, Canyonlands

Sunset on same as above.

Looking down from Dead Horse State Park.

This is where they filmed the end of the movie Thelma & Louise: The spectacular gorge of the final scene is not the Grand Canyon, but the Colorado River flowing through Canyonlands.

Canyonlands White Rim: This is looking down on what we drove around for three days on Trip #16.

These were granaries from the ancient ones tucked under a ledge. They didn't live here but kept a pantry here.

Canyonlands: looking through Mesa Arch.

(Oh, sorry, just admiring my new shirt.)

ya blinked!

Self Portrait: Reflections in an Airstream window. This would be the only shot of the camp.

Anyone know what Potash is? This is where it comes from. You can see this from Dead Horse State Park.


Trip #30: Grand Canyon North Rim & Paria, UT


September 26 - 12, 2010
 
UTAH: Buckskin Gulch
ARIZONA: North Rim Grand Canyon & Navajo Monument
636 miles

Camp Paria
Camped about 20 miles north of Lake Powell at Paria Canyon Guest Ranch campground, WITH electric, that was nice (because I had some ebay auction bidding going on). But forgot laptop charge plug, grrr. The next morning we did an 11 mile hike at Buckskin Gulch which was truly amazing. Hot outside but about 20 degrees cooler inside the slot. Next day camped ON the North Rim, hiked two miles into the canyon on Kaibab Trail (a killer: 2 miles down, 55 back miles up and hot out), 4x4 drive almost to Pt. Sublime for more views, biked a little of the area, dinner at the Lodge the last night there, last stop near Kayenta at Navajo National Monument for just one night.

Canyon Info:  Buckskin Gulch is the longest and deepest slot canyon in the Southwest, and while others are narrower, prettier or more challenging to explore, the length and variety of the terrain in the gulch make it the best overall. The canyon is narrow for 12 miles; the cliffs become steadily higher downstream, reaching a height of 500 feet above the streambed at the end, where Buckskin Gulch meets the Paria River which also flows through a deep canyon for several miles either side of the confluence.

Plethora of pics to come, but for now:


Southeast view looking out the door.

Shot this from across a canyon on a drive a few miles behind the camp area; couldn't tell at the time what it was, but now I see it is a huge bee hive.

Gradient sunset

Starting the slot canyon hike. Hence the name. This was the tightest spot but we didn't have to cut off any limbs, whew.

Trucking in

A jamming of flash flood debris very high overhead.

The canyon floor. Looks like chocolate shavings on a cake.

Just this small spot had water -- not what I wanted to see after the debris pile overhead.
After hiking about 5.5 miles in (the first 2.25 of which were on open riverbed), it opened up in spots. Turned around about here, but the canyon goes for another 14 miles or so

The walls are getting higher.

The water line. These visuals do cause a slight freakout feeling when you think about a flash flood with no way out.

Weird scenes inside the canyon #1: Mr. Lethargic Tarantula. He needed some sun to wake up. Wondered how he got here on the sandy bottom. Did he fall from the top? who knows. BTW, this sand was like walking on the beach.

Weird scenes inside the canyon #2: The other slot canyon.

Weird scenes inside the canyon #1: The Log Alligator

Heard there were petroglyphs, but couldn't find them. So I went off looking, while Bill accidentally sat right by them!!

Put down his at and he saw them. Just this little spot. Authentic or not, I have no idea but here they are.

North Rim at Sunset.  More to come...


Trip #29: Central Colorado


September 8 - 12, 2010
VILLA GROVE, GUNNISON

608 miles

Left a rainy Durango, headed toward Pagosa, camped at O’Haver Campground on a lake, nice spot. Next day went to mine and St. Elmo ghost town, camped at Pitkin, cleanest campground ever, drove the Alpine Tunnel drive with a wedgie – 9 miles of sheer drop-off edge, planned to camp near Creede but nothing open so ended up at Wolf Creek.

Hair-raising pics to come

Trip #28: Ouray, CO

July 25 - 27, 2010
2010 TOUAREG 4x4 RALLY

Several days of 4x4 planned, but s only went the easy first day: Cinnamon, Hurricane, etc. Next day B did Engineer, some got stuck in rockslide from storms.

Pics to come

Trip #27: Colorado Tour - Estes Park, Great Sand Dunes & more


June 7 – 21, 2010
GREAT SAND DUNES NATIONAL PARK, MUELLER STATE PARK, DENVER, ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK, ASPEN’S MAROON BELLS, RIDGWAY

1,125 miles

Estes Park Wool Market? I’m there. Rainy and cold the whole time. Cripple Creek, Florence, Phantom Canyon road and the SHELF road, Victor, Colorado Springs outlet mall, Estes Park river overflowing in town, bad weather everywhere, ended up in Frisco and finally saw a little sun, Aspen camped and hiked maroon bells, camped at Dutch Charlie campground in Ridgway.

Award-winning pics to come

Trip #26: New Mexico Park Tour


May 14 – 21, 2010
CROWNPOINT, BLUE WATER STATE PARK, EL MORRO, EL MALPAIS, SANTA FE,  BANDELIER NATIONAL MONUMENT
769 miles
 

Crownpoint Rug Auction – scored two! Wild horses in the park, inscription rock, tour of Santa Fe Palace of the Governors, camped at Heron Lake where Bill got some sort of spider bite on his arm, stop at Tierra Wools.













Amazing stop at El Morro's Inscription Rock -- carved grafitti as far back as the 1600s, and then American ones from the spread westward, including marks by:
 Topographical Engineer James H. Simpson and the artist Edward Kern, resulted [referring to a map] from a punitive expedition against the Navajos led by Colonel John M. Washington, the military governor of New Mexico, in 1849. The campaign was an important one, as Wheat observes, “following up that of Colonel Doniphan in 1846 before he went on to Mexico, and though the Indians remained restless it served its primary purpose of preserving the New Mexican settlements from Navajo raids.” The expedition traveled northwest from Santa Fe by way of the Jemez Pueblo and over the Jemez Mountains to Chaco Canyon and finally to Canyon de Chelly, “the very citadel of the Navajos,” as Goetzmann notes, where a treaty with the Navajos was signed. 

Inscription Rock is mentioned in the Kit Carson bio “Blood & Thunder,” as well as much on the Kearny Expedition. And the story of the Kern brothers is quite interesting, too -- can’t resist adding it here. I have pasted it in below the photos below.

I took my usual zillion photos just out of sheer amazement, and now through the wonderful world of the web, I found Kerns original drawings of some inscriptions when he first came upon them, and realized I had taken shot the same ones. They are shown below, along with my modern day shots. 

This spring is still there. Start your tour here, and walk to the right please...




 

 
This is the right side of what Kern drew above. Still there. FROM 1692!
And this is the left side.


What you see today from the drawing above from 1849. So apparently the line drawing of the box person was there back then, at least in 1849.

They couldn't resist leaving their own mark.



That last name is McCook, if anyone is researching.

Script on sandstone???
And how the heck did someone do this? on sandstone?


Richard H. and Edward Meyer Kern, artists and western explorers, gave the American public some of its earliest authentic graphic images of the people and landscape of Arizona, New Mexico, and southern Colorado, providing views of Canyon de Chelly, Chaco Canyon, and El Morro (Inscription Rock). This collection contains Richard and Edward’s original drawings from J.H. Simpson’s military reconaissance expedition to the Navajos in 1849. Background note:
Born 1821 in Philadelphia, PA, Richard H. Kern began exhibiting landscape and figure studies in Philadelphia around 1840. He was an art teacher at the Franklin Institute, owned his own studio at 62 Filbert Street in Philadelphia, and was a member of the Academy of Natural Sciences. Between 1848 and his death in 1853, he participated in four expeditions in the west, where he accomplished his best and most well known work. Edward Meyer Kern was born 1823 in Philadelphia, the youngest of three Kern brothers. By 1841, he, too, was exhibiting in Philadelphia as a painter.
From 1848-49 Richard and Edward joined in John C. Fremonts winter expedition, along with their older brother, Benjamin (1818-1849). The two were to be artists for the expedition, and Benjamin the doctor. The trip ended badly as some of the party were killed in the mountains of Colorado from starvation and exposure. In order to move more quickly to safety, it was necessary that the brothers hide their goods (including sketches) in a cave. After arriving in New Mexico, Benjamin returned for the hidden goods and was killed by a band of Utes. Only some of the sketches were recovered.
In August of 1849, Richard and Edward joined J. H. Simpson on the 1849 exploration campaign of John M. Washington. The goal was to lead a military expedition to punish the Navajos for raids on the New Mexico settlements and to secure a treaty with them, in addition to surveying the country. Richards role, as second assistant and artist, was to make portraits of Indian chiefs, costume, scenery, geological formations, ruins, and to copy ancient writings found on the sides of stone. Edward's role was as first assistant and topographer. The expedition brought both brothers back to New Mexico.
Edward and Richard lived in New Mexico for two years, working for the Corps of Topographical Engineers. In 1851 Richard joined Lieutenant Lorenzo Sitgreaves on an expedition to explore the Little Colorado River, and Edward joined Lieutenant John Pope, who was looking for a better route between Santa Fe and Fort Leavenworth. In 1852 Richard returned to Philadelphia.
Richard left for his fourth and final trip in 1853, joining Captain John Williams Gunnison on an expedition to survey a railroad route that would pass through the Rockies. On October 26, 1853, Richard accompanied Gunnison on a side trip to explore the area around Sevier Lake, Utah. There, A group of Pahvant Indians, seeking revenge for the murder of their chief, killed Kern alongside eight other members of Gunnison's party. The Indians carried away all the notes, sketchbooks and collections of the party. These were later returned to the U. S. Army corps.
From 1853 to 1856, Edward served aboard the U.S.S. Vincennes on the North Pacific exploring expedition commanded by Cadwalader Ringgold (later replaced by John Rodgers). This expedition navigated the globe and mapped the Japanese coast. Edward next joined Lieutenant John M. Brooke on a survey of the sea lanes between California and China, returning in 1860. During the Civil War, Edward served under Fremont, who had command of the Army of the West, but when Fremont was relieved of command, Edward was as well. He died November 23, 1863 of an epileptic attack. 
(wow. while most of modern-day people sit in front of computers)