Trip #122 (53): Southeast Utah Canyon Tour: Arches & Slots
October 5 – 16, 2022
Trip #122 (53): Southeast Utah Canyon Tour
October 5 – 16, 2022
NOTE: Things to remember when traveling to Canyon Lands:
[1] Always top off your gas tank no matter the price.
[2] Remember Utah schools provide a FALL BREAK. Check dates
before planning.
[3] Bring lots of food and fresh vegetables. Grocery stores
are limited. (suck)
[4] Careful where you camp if there will be rain. (nothing
happened, just sayin’.)
Wed., Oct. 5, 2022
Left later than normal, a cooler and very rainy Santa Fe (it
would rain for 3 days I think, what will the watermelons look like, hmm), for
the drive to Mancos State Park (#9 pull thru, no hookups). Took the back way,
finally driving out of the rain near Espanola. Stopped at the Walmart in
Durango for a new wiper blade (got the wrong one of course), then on to the
surprisingly nice park 5 miles north of Mancos. It’s on a small reservoir and
the temps were cool, not expecting that. But beautiful area, can’t beat them
mountains.
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Fall color on west side of the La Platas from Mancos
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Bill walking near the small reservoir
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Mancos State Park. One other camper today
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Thursday, Oct. 6
Heading for a 2-night stay in Arches National Park (end of
the loop, #46, great spot with its own slot canyon and big backyard. Happy hour
was cooler out there. But no signal tho you could walk to the top of the hill
for a bar or two). Weather was beautiful, sunny skies, but I wouldn’t have
minded it to be a bit cooler. Park and Moab were busy but not overly so… we
didn’t hit the park’s timed entrance so drove right in. First day we hung out
and maybe Bill won best of 3 of Kibbie, I don’t remember... It was an
almost-full moon. Ed. Note: Neither of us can remember what else we did this
first day so here’s to two bad brains.)
Friday, Oct. 7
Today we hiked Devil’s Garden to Landscape Arch, and a
little beyond. Temps are very nice, but again, I’d always take a little cooler,
but that’s hot me. After sitting around, Bill of course can’t sit around too
long, so we did the drive across Salt Valley to Klondike Bluffs to do a little
rock scrambling to the top to see over the ridge and the view. Talked to a nice
young couple about moving and stressed the importance of renting before buying
(they were considering moving to Moab, I hope they think this through). This
happy hour Sheila did the ass-kicking in the game, and Bill, every fascinated
with the full moon, forced me out for an evening march thru the sands of Arches.
Did some iPhone 13 pro night shots, dang this phone camera is amazing. You
wouldn’t know it was night, except for the stars.
Saturday, Oct. 8
Today we drove to our two night stay in Green River (#4,
right behind where we were last time when we had the coveted host site with
full-hookups incl sewer). Doing some local sightseeing we drove to Crystal
Geyser, a man made cold-water “soda” geyser created when they were drilling out
in the area for something. The site is along the Green Rive, pretty spot, but
dang it was hot so we wandered a bit and moved on. Nice to have electric and a
signal, tho it was only 2 bars. Never got on bikes, but we rode this place last
time, so… and it was warm.
Sunday, Oct. 9
Today we shall hike. Drove west on I-70 to mile post 147 for
the turn off for Black Dragon Canyon. A canyon hike sporting some pictographs,
that I wish I had read more about before we went so I knew what we were looking
for. No matter, the best parts were fenced off so you couldn’t miss them. Very
cool, the old kind painted with red “paint”. Hiked further on until we turned
around when the canyon opened up; this used to be the pass-through for the San
Rafael Swell ridge just ahead before they built I-70. Kinda surprised those
drawings are sill intact. On our trek back, a group of ATVers were looking for
the “black dragon” as were we. No one was sure what it looked like; in my mind,
after seeing a brochure I was expecting a big black pterodactyl… and so were
they I think. One guy drew something on the ground of what he thought it was –
nope, way off. But we did enjoy his hootie dog, Zip, who only had eyes for his
owner. Anyway, there was a weak signal as we walked out and the image was the
one we were looking at the whole time, a small one in red. That brochure was
full of shit. After this nice maybe 3 if that mile hike, we drove a little more
west past the swell (which by the way, seems a lot like the Comb Ridge further
south in Utah), and got a nice view from the viewpoint. Today we are going out
to dinner, as Sheila never misses a Mexican Restaurant sign. La Valenzuela down
the road. Sure taking a chance here… Played one game, Sheila won, and Willy
refused to walk to dinner so we drove, after one margarita, cuz this place was
only celebrating that it could serve beer. It wasn’t too bad, not great, but
heck, we are in a VERY small town. Did the trick. We will have to behave for
the next 5 nights and eat trailer food.
Monday, Oct. 10
After a stop at the Green River grocery, The Melon Vine --which
btw was very clean and very well stocked (we were expecting a west Texas
Porters) – it was on to Goblin Valley State Park (#16). A whole 45 minutes away.
Another nice sunny day (could be cooler), tho they say mid 70s AND CAN YOU
BELIEVE WE ARE IN THE SAME SPOT WE WERE IN PROBABLY 10 YEARS AGO. (ck yrs). OK
so there is a noisy 4-kid whiny family across from us, I hope they move on
soon. Not too hot here, so we rode bikes
a little (too freakin’ steep and sandy for me, and the paved road is nice but
you might get run over), and after a visit to the visitor center (geddy lee
mullet boy-girl), we headed out to the canyons known as Ding and Dang. I
thought it would just be a drive, but we ended up hiking at least 4 miles, it
was nice (tho it could have been cooler), pebble walk not beach sand yay, going
as far as we dared, as folks said there would be rock climbs (cut off your arm
climbs?), and water up to your chest. No thanks. But we enjoyed what we did,
and walking out at almost 5 pm were the last ones out. Of course I forgot the
pedometer, but would guess it was about 4 miles in total. Nights cool off into
the mid 40s but just right for sleeping. Days are in the high 70s I would
guess.
Tuesday, October 11
We liked that canyon hike yday, so will do another today…
Crack or Chute canyon, both on the other side of the “reef,” which shall it be?
Whichever one we find first. But first Bill took a bike ride down the road to
Goblin Valley cuz S was in no mood to rush out. Drove about 30 minutes along
the rough gravel road (now I remember why I’ve had enough of 4-wheeling for the
sake of 4-wheeling). Stopped at the junction known to have a signal to check
messages. Got one from Nancy VM regarding Bernie, getting the correction that
yes it is terminal, but the 3 weeks is for chemo. She will forward their info,
as Diane DK wanted us to know. Once the driver also had enough of the jostling
around, we turned toward what looked to be a canyon and, either way, we were
going to hike around the area. There were no signs at the “entrance” (found out
later had we gone a bit farther, it would have been the official entrance and
marked as such; but like I said, we were going to walk around anyway, very cool
desolate area. Turns out it was Crack Canyon, as we learned from 2 other
hikers. Later saw a group of 4 (same ones we saw at Ding yday) and that was it.
(Did I mention we passed the whiney family ATV-ing on our drive to this canyon?
Is this a small world or what.) Anyway, great hike, just enough climbing,
didn’t get our feet wet, it had a narrow spot and opened up again, very nice.
And also found a nice petrified rock branch I carried out that must weigh 8
lbs. Knowing how everything looks the same, we set up several trail cairns
(note to self: how come no one has designed personal trail markers for such a
situation? We could be RICH I tell YOU!) to mark out way out. I’m glad we did,
as we still wandered off here and there. I’m sure we would have figured it out,
eventually, but after 4 miles we surely didn’t want to have to trek further in
search of the truck. Came back to much wind in camp and the trailer FULL of
dust, just blowing in every window. True Grit here. Did the usual: chips and
salsa, happy hour, shower, kibbie, dinner, Friends recordings, and reading.
Pooped and asleep by about 9:30 (but of course, wide awake at 4 am).
Kibbie: I whooped his, 3 out of 5, or was it 3 out of 4,
doesn’t matter, I WON. Rematch tomorrow
Wednesday, Oct. 12
Yay, the noisy family just left. There was supposed to be a
front coming thru but I can’t tell any difference. Sunny as always. Full moon
now fading away.
What to do today? Well, we have yet to see the Goblins so
that is the main event. OK, did that, now what? Actually, they are interesting,
but you walk down into a slight redrock valley and it was like walking into the
oven. Yep, too hot under that blazing sun for more than 10 minutes, so I whined
and we moved along; need to get back into the shady canyons. Went to the
formerly busy Little Wild Horse Canyon, this is the main tourist canyon with
parking lot and bathroom. We did this one years ago, but I don’t remember much
detail. Wandered our way in and the canyon became a SLOT canyon and suddenly I
found myself getting a bit anxious, like, I need to get out of here. I was
right behind Bill, considered clmbing over the top of him, but instead fell
back for more space when he said it opened up up ahead. Ok then. A few curves
later and we are looking at a sliver of a canyon, dark with no light ahead. I
said, no thanks, no can-do, I’ll wait here. He did a little but came out soon.
Did this before for this time I’d rather not. Feels like a trap. Moved over to
a shorter walk on Bell Canyon, which was nice and 5 feet or more wide, but it
dead-ended (for us) at a tall rock we could not climb over. Only about 2pm now
so we checked out the long-driveway boondock camping outside the park… well, a
rough ride in but might be interesting. And far enough way from the road for
the dust that is sure to blow in. Next we drove north from cell phone junction
(which by the way, today was not producing much of a signal), which turned out
to be the San Rafael Reef Wilderness, which also has some boondocking with
potential one-bar cell service. Drove north until the road got pretty rough
from a wash, but it looked interesting so we parked and walked up it. Cool!!
Once you get past the sandy flat part the very walkable slick rock rose up
gradually toward the reef edge, seeing full water tanks all the way up. Wanted
to get to the top, but once up there it kept going. And so would have I except
we had no water or phone for pics and no food and we are getting hungry. Next
time! I see the exploration spot. Similar to the comb ridge down south. Came
back to a new batch of bike-riding loud kids (why is no one in school?), and it
was beautiful out - in the shade of the trailer. Played a best of 3 – Bill did
the ass-kickin’ this time. Then the usual, dinner, Quinn, news, friends,
reading.
Thursday, Oct. 13
Today we move on to Capital Reef, home of the dumbest place names,
IMO. Been 11 years since we last saw this park too. Drove south from Goblin to
Hanksville, hoping for a good grocery. Nope, just a very small one with very
limited selections (iceberg lettuce, for instance; but very nice white
mushrooms for whatever reason). Got what we could, which was not much, but we
did get a cell signal for a quick catch up. We turned west on 24 for the drive
to Capitol Reef (first confusing name), not knowing at the time we were driving
over the waterpocket fold (yet another confusing name/descriptor). With a
one-bar signal, learned from Barb that Roo’s father had passed away, but I was
unable to get out my response – it is still stuck in my phone as I type this.
Well, what do you know, this place is also PACKED, looks like the tour buses
have found it as well, people all over, trailheads overflow parking on the
road, campground buzzing, or more, screaming with kids. We are in Loop A #5,
easy to get to, seems to be along Host Row. Just BEAUTIFUL here, much cooler in
the shade of all the big trees, which are turning into their fall yellow. But
OMG, full of kids. Big families and every kid has a bike and likes to squeal
its communications. But other than that… Found out this week of October is “fall
break” for Utah kids, did not know that. From our notes, we see we were here in
March and May, 10 & 11 years ago, and it was soooo much quieter. First
thing I had to do was get over to Gifford House (old homestead cabin now gift
shop) for whatever they have to offer, last time was that rag rug book and
jelly; this time yes on the jelly but no good crafts, tho I will get a
horsehair necklace and Bill got a small apple pie and ice cream. Boy do they
sell those, the following day I heard the lady say they sold out 30 dozen pies
by noon! As I said it’s busy here. Anyway, not sure what to do, so took the
“1.2 mile” walk to the visitor center, yep, hot in the sun part of the walk.
Was hoping for a signal but not enough for my phone. People people everywhere.
At 3pm I went over to the Geology Talk, which was helpful in understanding all
this sediment layering around, really enjoyed it. He held up a park brochure,
and working backwards, he said if there were a brochure 100,000 years ago it
would look like this, holding up an ocean image on cover. Then swamp, then
forest, then sand dunes, glaciers, etc etc. All the while, all I could think of
is how GLOBAL WARMING maniacs think we will be done in 12 years. Have they ever
studied geology??? Have they not seen how this planet has transitioned over
millennia, as an ever-changing, plate moving ball of dirt? (my words, that’s
why I didn’t give the talk) Hung around, walked the river trail, played Kibbie,
I won, and later went to the movie at the amphitheater, also very informative.
And holy shit the sky! You can see the milky way even with all the campground
lights. My phone can even see it. Oh that was fun trying to get the sky shot at
night, flashlights flying everywhere, cars going by, squealing kids at 9pm…
Prob walked 3 miles today.
Friday, Oct. 14
This morning we drove south to the Capitol Gorge, where
there are “pioneer grafitti” and some (weak) petroglyphs. Walked down the wash
to see these carvings, huge families with screaming kids always around, but we
kept walking down the wash and got some peace and quiet. Probably walked 3
miles in total. Driving out of there Bill noticed someone was leaking oil, he
was right, saw the disabled camper truck on the side of the road, boy the are
in a world of hurt, stuck half way down there. After lunch, back out to Hickman
Bridge. Damn it was hot at the start, but got cooler further up, about 300 foot
gain on that one. Very nice, saw the natural bridge, of course with screaming
MOM! Kids around. Walked the boardwalk of Freemont petroglyphs, also not too
impressive, but the bus was there. After dinner (running out of good food), former
Durango neighbor Kent M showed up at the door – he is camped right behind us.
Unbelievable. Went to the 7:30 Ranger Talk, also very good, we hit here with
questions. Tried again for the milky way. Dead asleep by 10. And of course,
awake at 1 am… ugh. Bill won 2 of 3, but he stole Raindrop. With Hickman,
probably walked 5 miles today.
Saturday, Oct. 15
Nice day and the campground is a lot quieter but time to go.
Not on the road till about 10:30 after waiting for the dump and all. Drove back
to Hanksville and got groceries, if you can call it that, checked phones for
messages and drove on down toward Glen Canyon and Natural Bridges. Ol’ Hog
Valley (?) has been discovered, people parked all over for hiking the canyons
and the campground full. Dang, glad we did this 10 years ago. The lake is as
dry and receded as we’ve heard, but a trickle moving thru the canyons. Decided
on staying at the Natural Bridges overflow and hike some canyons tomorrow,
hoping the weather holds out – warm today but a cooler, overcast day promised
for tomorrow, with a chance of rain. No one else here, Bill did a recon down
the hill on his motorcycle and decided he could get the trailer down that
rutted road, so we did. Such a great spot, and 4 miles from the Kane Gulch
trailhead; probably our 4th time here. Did I mention free? Hung out
after driving to the ranger station to find it had closed at noon. Beautiful
day, but Dish weather says it may rain tomorrow and this will majorly change
our plans… Like leaving instead of hiking.
Sunday, Oct. 16
Woke to 47 degrees and increasing clouds, concerning us, at
least me. Pulling this thing out in mud scares the BeeJeebies out of me, plus
we are low on fuel. Today will be interesting. Hoping for no drama! So after
breakfast we will be leaving. Drove straight through after fueling in Blanding.
Good thing, because taxes were due and Beck needed more docs to finish. Home by
6 pm. Santa Fe weather has cool now, too -- welcome fall/winter.
RIP: Judy Tenuda, Angela Lansbury, Lou’s father on 13th
Small World: Kent M showed up behind us in Fruita.