Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Trip #53 (21): Death Valley


March 14 – 23, 2013

Arizona, Nevada, California, Utah:
Phoenix to Parker to Death Valley to Lee's Ferry



Note to reader: Try double-clicking on an image and it should expand into a full-size image, and possibly a slideshow.

Thursday, March 14, 2013
Left EARLY from Durango (7:45 am) to head to Phoenix to pick up the trailer, drag it around and bring it on home. The weather in Durango has been sunny now after the last snow a week ago, and could be as warm as 60 by tomorrow. For a change this time we took 160 on thru Kayenta (no dogs!) and Tuba City. We stopped in Flagstaff at Thunderbird jewelry supply, sister store to the big one in Gallup, and lunch at Subway and off we went again. I wanted a McD shamrock shake, but the Micky D's in Flagstaff said they were "all out" --- what??? This is the first time in a year I want a shake and I couldn't have it? Now it will be my mission... On we drove south, leaving the pleasant 60s then 70s behind, only to find 97 in Phoenix traffic. wow dats hot. Let-down of the day: my driver also refused to take me into downtown Phoenix so I could yell "HI NANCY GRACE!" out the window during a drive-by of the Jodi Arias Trail. So close, and yet so far away. Right near the RV storage is a Mc Donalds; we hit the drive-thru. We order. We are told the milkshake machine is down. WTF????? really?!  Tomorrow is another day for a milkshake. We unloaded, changed clothes to cool off, and hit the shops to kill time; we would be spending the night in the casino parking lot with no electric and no a/c, so best to stay out until dark. And we did. First, Hobby Lobby, dinner at Thai Basil Signature (very good) on Chandler, then, of course and naturally, Trader Joe's. Now we can resume life in the trailer. We were both exhausted so we were asleep before we noticed we were camped in a parking lot at the Lone Butte Casino.

Friday, March 15, 2013

That's us, dead center, circled in red.
 
Today will be record heat -- how DO we time things so well, I have no idea. But we are moving on, west to the final destination of Parker, home of a dam and the Colorado River, and lots and lots of retirees and vacation homes. Kind of overcast today but the warmest I saw was 93 in Parker. Which is also where I finally got a Shamrock Shake (it wasn't all that).  We will be staying two nights at River Island State Park sorta on the river, which is like a narrower Intracoastal, even with a few loud, fast boats. I should mention we drove past Quartzite on the way here, but my driver would not cruise the town which had books and rocks as a promise. Nope no sir no way, we have to get to Parker. And when we did we wondered why... Not much to do except play on the river, not my idea of fun. We walked down to see the water but it was very hot out so we went staight back to the hot dog and cranked up the a/c then drove back to Parker to make sure we didn't miss anything. We  didn't. But we did discover Riverside Drive, that was nice. Lots of second homes I think, and bars. 20 years ago this might have been promising to my interests, but now, not so much. (What? no yarn or bead shops???) We did get to the tourist center to learn about two interesting things: The Nellie E. Saloon five miles out in the desert (tomorrow) only open on weekends, and the ghost town of Swansea, also on the list for tomorrow. 
Parker Dam. And you can drive over this one.

Saturday, March 16, 2013
That's California on the other side of the Colorado River.
Exploration day, but first, a hike up to the top of the hill at the campsite to get the 180 view of the area, pretty neat and the beaver-tail prickly pear cacti were blooming. We then drove 11 miles south to Parker to head east and into the desert to visit the ghost townsite of Swansea, an old copper mine which went out of business in the early 1900s. Next we went to the (in)famous Desert Bar, built about 30 years ago about 5 miles out in the desert east of Parker. Some guy acquired old mining land and slowly built a bar that is only open on weekends, noon to sundown. Very popular, and as expected, probably more famous for it's T shirts. Nothing great, just a very unusual setting. Lots of retirees, a so-so band and oddly enough, helicopter rides. The dirt road was windy, and more challenging than the drive to Swansea. And these people were driving out under the influence. Probably why it's not open after dark.
See the Parker Dam off in the distance?

The beaver tail prickly pear are in bloom.
The Arizona Canal.
A blast from the past in Parker.
A ghost in the ghost town of Swansea, where copper was king.
The rules don't apply to Billy...
Swansea Ruins
Approach to the Desert Bar, Nellie E. That's a fake church they built.
Just a strange, rambling establishment. Nothing else to do I guess.
But they do have helicopter rides. (Looks like the last scene from MASH.) No, we didn't go.
Sunday, March 17, 2013
London Bridge in Lake Havasu, AZ
 At Parker we were in spot #13 at the River Island State Park, center of the little park. Water and electric, $55 for two nights. Don't know where we are heading, depends on weather -- it's warming up already. About 90 in Parker. Today we moved on north to drive through Lake Havasu City and drive over the London Bridge, then on to Oatman, home of the roaming burros. Oatman was a little (junky) old former mining town and now a tourist trap thanks to the burros. Didn't stay long, almost couldn't find a place to park the rig but lucked out, with me standing in two parking spots chasing off cars while Bill fetched the truck. The cool part was driving an old winding part of Route 66 to get there. That was pretty cool. Final destination was Lake Mead
Route 66 through Arizona on the way to Oatman.
and Boulder Beach to stay at the cramped full hookup side. Probably won't do that again, not much ambiance... It was a long day and we were so pooped so we didn't even take it off the truck as we knew we would be busting out early in the am.


This baby was so soft! Spinable I'd say.

And the mules own the town, so get out of their way.
Sunset on Lake Mead at Boulder Beach campground.
Monday, March 18, 2013
Furnace Creek Campground. And the lack of shade near our site.

Heading to Death Valley now, with a grocery stop in Pahrump. What a weird city name. The mountains west of Las Vegas are pretty nice, especially when you see the temps drop 10 degrees. Drove all the way to Death Valley, looking around in awe of the fact that we were soon to be 214 feet below seal level at, of all things, the golf course.  It was plenty warm, so after securing a spot at Furnace Creek Campground we thought it best to drive around and see the sights (with the a/c blasting) for the remainder of the day. Campground was pretty full with families for spring break so not exactly peaceful. Saw Zabriskie Point, Artist Drive, and the little post office a few times. How convenient was that. Fortunately the night cooled off enough for comfort without a/c and we were asleep before long, after another long day of driving around.

Japanese tourists in M&M shirts at Zabriskie Point

At Furnace Creek
Zabriskie Point

Zabriskie Point Overlook




Artist Drive

Artist's Palette
Tuesday, March 19, 2013
Cool morning here at 200 feet below at Furnace Creek (66 degrees) so we walked over to the visitor center and village to check it out some more, like the old wagons behind the borax museum. Then we drove over to the Furnace Creek Inn for a lobby tour -- it was way nicer than expected, as we, the riffraff, blew through. Rooms are anywhere from $275 - $450. We've decided to leave this busy and hot with no shade campground for Stovepipe Wells so we packed up and moved on. One look at Stovepipe 20 miles up the road and we kept on going--it was basically a parking lot on gravel with parking bumpers! And not an inch of shade. Again, it's a high of 90 but without shade, it is a killer. Taking our chances on availability we headed on north to the last in the series: Mesquite Springs. Lucked out! A few low bushes but located along a wash and way more scenic than the previous, with hiking over the wash as well. We are a bit higher so we have a nice cool breeze tho it is 83 or so -- still hot in the direct sun. Later in the afternoon we drove three miles to Scotty's Castle, very interesting, another example of what the wealthy did with their dough in the 1920s. Interesting tour of an eccentric's home. And an interesting personal story of Johnson: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albert_Mussey_Johnson 
Came back climbed up the slope of rocks across the wash to rock nirvana -- a plateau of rock of all shapes and sizes, so soon Bill left me to myself and my rocks. Glorious. Tonight we shall cook out and enjoy some cooler temps. I think we are above seal level now. The stars were amazing, this is where the dark skies are.

20-Mule Team Borax Wagon at Furnace Creek
Furnace Creek Inn exterior and Lobby Tour. (Hey, what am I doing in a trailer??

Furnace Creek fuel prices -- you don't want to fill up down here.

Golf course at Furnace Creek. 214 feet below sea level. Just imagine how nice it would be in August.


Mesquite Campground. Tricky pic; looks like we are alone but we're not. Just a lucky shot.
Scotty's Castle. That cross up on the hill in the background is Scotty's grave.

In the courtyard of "Scotty's Castle"; it's really called Death Valley Ranch.
What a place this was -- and still is, just as they left it.
Wednesday, March 20, 2013 - Spring, almost! and our coolest morning here to date...
Decided to stay another night here so today we took a drive thru Scotty's Junction and over to Beatty to get gas. Vast open emptiness, and a single truck rollover sorta near the Shady Lady Ranch location, a Nevada brothel in the middle of nowhere. We drove back to camp the long winding way through Titus Canyon which had two ghost towns to tour: Rhyolite and Leadfield. Rhyolite was the larger of the two but not real exciting. Concrete building remains from the 1920s, and the Bottle House, a small house a man created for a raffle, the brochure said, but it also served as someone's home. I think I saw this featured on TV long ago. 



Out in the yard was a mosaic village of little buildings, rough to say the least. I'm ready to lend a hand if needed. We also toured the little cemetery down the road to say hi to everyone. 

A monument erected in the late 1950s looks like the last time anyone paid this place any attention. The 27-mile drive through Titus Canyon was really nice, beautiful, colorful mountains, maybe 4000+ in elevation, the winding road looped through the mountain range on the east side of the park, taking you through a high walled canyon until it lets out back in Death Valley. Bill eyed some big lizards off to the side but other than that not much life, not even birds around here. Our last site of the day was Ubehebe Crater, three miles north of our camp. That was a big surprise like the beauty of Titus Canyon -- was expecting a dent on the earth's surface, but instead it was a huge and colorful crater! and windy! and crowded. Didn't stay long; was entertained by a raven soaring on the wind currents but the wind was just too much, so a few photos and off we went. Back at camp I raced back up for another walk on the moon -- back up my mountain on the other side of the wash. Love it up there, rocks and rocks and rocks... and a snake. Suddenly I see wavy back end of a tan and black snake, half under a rock after coming within about two feet of it. Well that did it for my rock hunting -- my eyes were now focused on black and tan wavy things. ewww!!! Don't consider myself afraid of snakes, but that one surprised m, as earlier I wondered, hmm, what if I get bit by a snake up here by myself and have to drag the leg back to the edge to get down... and how long would I wait before Bill would come look for my lifeless body among this lunar surface.... so ended my journey. Time to head down. Note: Looked up the snake: Horned Death they call it! A Sidewinder Rattlesnake! Darn, didn't see the horned head and didn't have a camera anyway, and don't remember a rattle but then I didn't hang around long to examine it…but this is what I saw.  http://www.desertusa.com/mag98/april/papr/du_sidewind.html


Titus Canyon Drive

I know what this was! Wandering thru yet another ghost town, Leadfield.
A Chuckwalla in Titus Canyon. Good eye, Bill -- he spotted this big fat thing from the car.
Ubehebe Crater is half a mile (one kilometer) wide and 500 to 777 feet (150 to 237 m) deep. The age of the crater is estimated from 2,000 to 7,000 years old.[1] "Ubehebe" (pronounced YOO-bee-HEE-bee) is a Timbisha Native American word meaning "Big basket in the rock."
Bill on the brink. It was SO windy there ravens hovered. It was nice but we didn't stay long.
Thursday, March 21, 2013
Another beautiful day in Utah. That sky is for real.
 Left Death Valley, with plans to return next time in February, when it's a tad cooler. Bill has noticed a rear trailer tire wearing on the edge so we drove to Las Vegas' Discount Tire for a rotation. Good timing - I have an ad to work on. Bright sunny day but windy as all get out as that system seems to be moving through but leaving us with the sun down here. We continued on to just west of St. George Utah and spent the night at a campground off I-15 in the Virgin River Canyon, beautiful area. Just a quick stay, left the trailer on the truck for a quick getaway tomorrow. Still listening to the Arias trial. Bill not so thrilled with my addiction but with Sirrius radio and Headline News, I can't help myself.

Friday, March 22, 2013

That dark area is the Colorado River.
 Took some time to walk down to the river before departure. Lots of rocks! But none suitable for a birdbath. They are all safe where they are. We left the interstate and headed toward Fredonia with no real plan, but would end up at Lees Ferry for the night. While shopping at Prairie Dog Pottery in Fredonia the potter told us the highway was out south of Page, so we planned accordingly. Boy he was right: Apparently on Feb. 20 there was a total geologic collapse which destroyed a large section of the road. Small World Alert: These Fredonia potters have a son living in Wilton Manors, Florida. Still super windy on our drive eastward, which took us a bit higher into pine trees near Jacob Lake. Good to see those again, since we've been deserting all week. Got a nice spot at Lees Ferry and took off to see the historic Lonely Dell Ranch site in the park. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lee%27s_Ferry_and_Lonely_Dell_Ranch  

The period of significance for the district extends from the 1871 arrival of the Lees to the last run of the ferry in 1928, according to wiki. Fortunately the trailer was set up with the back end to the winds, which got stronger as the day went on. Had to hold on to that door or it would rip it off! I can't imagine how the tenters kept them standing through the night. It was bad. But we're moving on in the am because it's going to get colder. At least we had a signal here in the park so we could use our phones and computer.
Navajo Bridge
Saturday, March 23, 2013
Going home day. Hit the road by 9:30 (how we manage to hit this exact departure time so often I don't know. 9:30 is the magic time) and drove all the way home, arriving about 4:30 or so. Sunny but cold day everywhere, which is why we went all the way home. Barely broke 30 degrees, arriving to 25 in Durango. I did manage to visit three trading posts on the way, including Teec Nos Pos, but didn't find anything I couldn't live without, amazingly (I usually do). So now the armored hot dog is home safe and sound; no more trips to Phoenix for a while. 
A stop on the Reservation on the way home.


Saturday, March 9, 2013

Trip #52 (20): Arizona

February 9 –17, 2013

Aravaipa Canyon, Tucson, Superstitions (Apache Junction), Winslow


Monday, December 31, 2012

Trip #51 (19): Florida for Christmas

December 5, 2012 - Jan 14, 2013

Durango to Florida, by way of Phoenix, El Paso, San Antonio, New Orleans and St Pete.
Return through Ocala, Santa Rosa Beach, Baton Rouge, Rodeo, Tombstone, Tucson.








Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Trip #49 (17): Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta, New Mexico

October 4 - 9, 2012

Albuquerque & Santa Fe






Trip #48 (16): Moab & Bluff, Utah

September 29 – October 3, 2012
Moab 4x4 & Bluff's Comb Ridge

Saturday, Sept. 29


Beating up a perfectly good car.
Heading for the edge to see the Colorado River below.


Along the Chicken Corners trail, outside Moab, Utah


Visions of what the Anasazi might have looked like.

Thursday, August 30, 2012

Trip #47 (15): Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota, Idaho, Utah & Colorado

August 15 - September 8, 2012
June 3 - 15, 2012

Montana: Big Sky, Custer Battlefield,
Wyoming: Yellowstone, Cody Historical Center
South Dakota: Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse Memorial, Deadwood, Custer State Park, Missile Site; Utah, Idaho

Utah: Utah Lake, Provo, the Mormon Trail
Idaho: Mesa Falls
Montana: Wade Lake Fly Fishing, Bozeman, Hutterite Farmer's Market, Gallatin River
Wyoming: Yellowstone NP, Cody: Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Crow Agency: Bighorn/Custer Battlefield, Devil's Tower, Fort Laramie, Oregon Trail Wagon Ruts
South Dakota: Deadwood, The Badlands, Minuteman Missile Site, Wall Drug, Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse Memorial
Colorado: Rocky Mountain National Park

Wednesday, August 15
Did a full day's drive of 352 miles through Moab, making it all the way to Provo, Utah, where we camped at Utah Lake State Park (B-23) for the night. It was OK just a few campers, but a little buggy along the grassy shores. Arrived around 4 so had time to get in a little shopping (a mall!) and dinner at PF Changs.

Thursday, August 16
Got an early start leaving Provo heading toward the east to take the scenic and slower winding route toward Evanston, Wyoming and onward. We would cross the Idaho-Wyoming border numerous times, nice drive. Stopped for lunch along the road next to the city park in the little town of Randolph, Utah. Suddenly we were surrounded with a wagon train of white boxes who liked our idea of a nice place to lunch. Continued on to our final destination of Palisades Reservoir in Idaho for the night. Small campground, good for fishermen. A little on the warm side but we got in some walks. The water was way down in the rez. Saw a deer checking us out in the am. Had to drive across the one-lane dam to get to it, that was exciting. We would have six state border crossings this day, driving 89. 262 miles today

Friday, August 17
Today we're driving on the west side of the Grand Tetons, which we could barely see due to the smoke of some distant fires. Stopped for breakfast in Driggs, a cute little town which happened to be having their farmer's market as well. Because we were walking past it we had breakfast in O'Rourke's Irish Pub, not exactly the organic bistro... but it was good altho salty but what isn't in the restaurant world. Enjoyed the little farmer's market, got some breakfast bread to take to the O'C's. Drove on with one more stop at Mesa Falls for some pics, it was a nice stop but a tad warm out in the sun. Shade was a relief. Cute little museum there too where Bill had a black bear attack. Drove on now about 3pm finally making our way toward Big Sky where we would spend the next 5 nights off-wheels at the Chateau Niblick, located inside the world famous O-C Ranch. After settling down we went up the meadow for dinner then did a drive around to some defunct developments which are experience major settling problems.....  217 miles today.

Saturday, August 18
Big day in town -- we all piled in the Ranch mobile to visit the very large Bozeman Farmer's Market and Hutterite veggie stand at the Four Corners. Saw what he had and would come back later. Got some great Flathead cherries which we ate as we walked and some other fun things and food. We also went to the Manhattan Potato Festival which was HOT, crowded and had no potatoes! So we left and had lunch at the old Stacy's bar in Gallatin Gateway. Neat old bar with a good burger. Got out of for a short hike up above the ranch and got a good 360 view of the beautiful mountain scenery. Stayed in for dinner and make a beer can chicken for dinner and had lots of laughs.

Sunday, August 19
Fishing day! Drove south to Wade Lake and our host hauled his raft down for some fly fishing on an alpine lake. Stopped for Bill to get a license and I decided I'd rather row. And I loved it by the way. The day was overcast so the temps were just right. Another couple came along with their little one-man raft so we spent the day on the lake shores, floating, rowing, knitting and not catching any fish. The wind picked up later in the day, the smoke rolled in, and the temps dropped so we left to have dinner at the Grizzly restaurant and headed home.

Monday, August 20
Ladies Shopping Day! The men did whatever, but we gals had a list of destinations and spent the whole day checking off the list in Bozeman. Yarn shops, furniture, clothing, and an unexpected lunch date at the Over Easy. Got back late, like after 5, so we ate in having Mojo crock pot pork. Introduced our hosts to Bananagrams and staying up late to play a special game and laughed myself to sleep with words I cannot repeat here.

Tuesday, August 21
One last day of fishing along the Gallatin River just a few miles from the O'C Ranch. He said he caught one up the river, but we gals were knitting and didn't see it. Went to a final dinner at the Buck's 4T and tomorrow we would head out.

Wednesay, August 22
Hit the road by 8:30, stopped for provisions (and a yarn shop) in West Yellowstone and headed to our campground at Bay Bridge taking the west drive around the lower park loop. At first we weren't too thrilled with the look of the campground, but later we would find it had a new charm: Bison! they roam all through the campground, it was amazing! And freakin' scary when we walked in the dark to the 9pm Ranger Program and could just make them out in the distance. Coming back, in pitch dark, not sure where to walk with just a little flashlight, we heard a snort and I freaked! Where are they??!!! You can't see them but just ahead I could make out bumps and there they were, we were walking right toward them! I don't know their behavior and didn't know if the flashlight would scare them and make them well, stampede our way, so yeah I was freaking and we headed toward the left hoping they weren't there too. That was a SCARY walk back, just a quarter of a moon up there not helping for sight. I will NOT do that walk again tonight: and the talk is on Bisons. There's signs about not approaching bison but I didn't thing they'd surround a camper! wow, really strange. We had spent the later part of the afternoon driving around the park (I actually took an unplanned nap after we got here about 1:30) and got some good shots of buff along the road. They were all over and cars were stopping all over. Sometimes they had to because the buffs were crossing the road.  We need to get an early start and maybe we could see some wolves in the Lamar Valley. Right now I smell sulphur which could be from the mud pots up the road. P U. Gotta get ready for a hike now, it's 54 degrees and sunny. The campground isn't very crowded which is nice.

Wed - after nap drove around up the canyon to the canyon village

Thursday - 42 in the am
Hiked nearby up Elephant Back about a 5 mile round trip. Nice hike but up tho it allows a view of the lake up there but it was smoked in. Next to Prismatic thermal to climb the ashy hill behind it for the overhead shot. climbed as high as we could and took as many pics as we could before practically sliding down to leave. Next we stopped at Biscuit Basin for more thermals, adding an unplanned two mile RT hike to Mystic Falls, very pretty. Upon leaving, we were getting a drink at the truck when we heard an explosion and turned to see the Black Diamond Pool EXPLODE in a huge geyser burst, throwing black crud and steam I bet 30 feet in the air. People along the shore were astounded to say the least. I'm so glad we got to see that -- we asked around to the rangers to see how often it goes off and were told it has no schedule but maybe every few days. extra cool. Decided to skip Old Faithful this time, it was getting warm, maybe 80 but hotter in the sun, so we came back to hang out. While sitting outside I could hear the low growls of the buffalo approaching when I knew they were coming in. Bill was in the shower, and the guy next door says you're not goin in are you? Of course not i said, as I warned bill and got another camera. Went to bison talk at 9, no buffs on trail home,

Friday
got a burly to go to Hayden Valley for animal spotting, but saw nothing. Some people think they saw a wolf but I think it was a rock. We did a 2+ mile RT hike to Wapiti (where a man was eaten last yer BTW) so I was very nervous and on high alert as well. Other trails off this were closed which made me more nervous not knowing why (more bears?) but later was told it was to protect wolf dens. so ok. It lead us to Clear Lake, a stinky sulfur lake that you didn't want to stick around long for. Coming back was better, I felt safer and we were on a high open plain and had some ravens and a big hawk flying overhead. We were pooped from yesterday and though we decided that was enough hiking, we then hiked from Upper Falls to Artist Point, another 2 miles RT, and very steep. Carrying that camera backpack was HEAVY. Just so I could get some hazy smoky shots, poo, but had to try. Next went to Canyon Village to poke around, then to Fishing Bridge Village (where they say you can spot grizzly but we didn't) and noticed "our" herd of bison were roaming there. Must have been because they didn't come back to camp this night. But they sure do like to go where the people are. Came back, napped, then walked over to the marina here and along the lake and back. After dinner the talk to night was on wolves at 9 -- too tired so instead we watched some Dances with Wolves.

Saturday,
Today we leave and head for Cody, Wyoming. Drove over Sylvan Pass out of the park where we noticed many more signs warning of grizzly action, but saw none. Stopped at the end of the pass to pee when a car pulled ahead of us and started asking about the trailer. Sheesh the grinning old man was creepy but excited about the trailer I guess. All I could think of was Deliverance. Cody was a small town but we walked around downtown and had lunch at a Mexican place. Finally got to the Buffalo Bill Historical Museum and was blown away! It was fabulous, 5 museums under one roof: Buffalo Bill, Yellowstone, firearms, western art, and plains Indians. Saw them all, quickly by the time they closed at 6. too bad the gift shop was so overpriced so I left with no souvenirs. Camped at BB state park on the big lake, but a good spot, no electric, but collected some nice smooth driftwood from the shores.

Sunday,
Left Cody for Custer Battlefield. Warming up, after a stop at a Ranger station we changed our route to stay out of the mountains to go back up to Montana for Custer. Went east before Billings but did manage to do a little damage at Cabelas. Arrived at the Crow Agency but decided to move on past the battlefield site and camped at 7th Ranch private RV place with electric and wifi. Though not much wifi as free wifi usually is. But, we got free ice cream bars! woo hoo! Nice location and now we know we might have been on ground the troops passed over back in 1876, as in the distance we could see cars driving along the battle ridge of the monument to the north. I alone walked up hill behind the campground to where the flag was and surveyed the terrain; so much history here ...and my kingdom for my metal detector. Alas I don't want to do the time for that. We arranged for a late checkout so we could go to the park tomorrow. Getting warmer, which is why we wanted a CG with electric, need to run the a/c.

Mon Aug 27
Left for the battlefield about 8am, it was just down the road about 6 miles. We sat for the ranger talk first which really helped with our understanding of what happened. He mentioned several misconceptions, one of which I had: that Custer was surprised by the number of Indians present. Here they told us he was informed by scouts about the size of the village and he disregarded the info. He was also told to take more troops and he didn't think he'd need them. And he was following orders; it wasn't his idea to do this in the first place. He just thought fighting Indians was a sure thing for the US. Well it wasn't, as we stood on the last-stand hill seeing all the white marble markers showing where soldiers fell. And also red marble ones to show where Indians fell. Excavations were done in 1954 (even a body was found then) and 1984 with ballistics so more of the story could be put together. So basically we were looking at this wide open, undulating landscape, trying to imagine two forces clashing, which is hard to do, until you start picturing a Hollywood movie. Like, Joey Bishop as the Indian (and by the way, they do say “Indians" up here.) So I guess the best thing to do would be to come back at the end of June (this happened around June 25-26) for the re-enactment. wow, that would be something to see I'd think. I'll have to read more about that. So for now we just did the drive to the other end, which is on private land now, tried to follow all the details from our borrowed cassette tape but soon just drove back and more enjoyed the small herd of horses which just passed through. The Crow students also offer they own tour with the Indian side of the story but we didn't have time to do both. Next time. So for now I left with a sad and depressed feeling, walking on that very ground... guess I better not go to Gettysburg anytime soon. And did I mention it was 95º by noon? We left the RV camp about 1:30 for a longer drive to our next stop: Keyhole Lake State Park. We didn't arrive until about 5pm but did get an electric spot. Good thing: the car thermometer read 98 degrees most of the day. It actually read 105 after a fuel stop in Sheridan. That was a bigger town, population 30,000 and a larger downtown area, but it was only a drive-by for us. Nice little park here but it's only a one-nighter so wont get to see much. Tomorrow it's Devil's Tower and Deadwood.

Tuesday, August 28
Drove through beautiful open land, once home to roaming Indians and buffalo I imagine, to get to Deadwood in the Black Hills. A little bummed that it turned out to be mostly casinos with some history. (where's all the coffee shops???) Very hot today so we picked a private RV campground with electric but without shade and 95º this little Airstream does not cool off at all. Do you go outside and bake? or stay inside and stifle? Bill had a conference call with the film board scheduled for 5:30 so after driving up to see the Deadwood cemetery to see Wild Bill Hickcock's and Calamity Jane's graves and many more, plus a trip up to Lead for groceries, he got ready for that at camp and I hoofed it the mile or so to town. We decided he would meet me there later for dinner and we'd take the trolley back. Well, I made it to town on the lovely Mickelson Rail to Trail, continued to walk all over this small town, now it's 6:45 and he's still in his meeting! Running out of things to do at this hour,  I walked all the way back, and it was still hot. Thank goodness it was a dry heat so I only felt like the bread baking in the oven rather than a rice steamer.... No matter, it just sucks when you have no place to go to really cool off. Our coolest place has been the truck! We drove in to town to for dinner at Hickcock's steakhouse, eating in a faux mine-shaft type basement but food not bad for a casino. And a smoke-free casino at that -- also enjoyed $1 worth of fun on a penny machine! Bill had enough of that so when that was gone (appx. 12 minutes) we had to leave. So that was Deadwood. Can't say we'd hurry back.

Wednesday, Aug 29 - The Hottest Day
Left Deadwood earlyish, getting hot already. I think it was 90 by 10:30am. We are scheduled for two nights in the Badlands, but with this heat we are reconsidering that plan. It's a short drive—maybe 70 miles from Deadwood to the Badlands—and knowing how hot it will be we were trying to find ways to kill time... Went to the Rapid City Best Buy where I got a new little camera! My four-year-old one is spotting and we can't clean it so maybe it's time. Next stop the famous Wall Drug, a huge complex along the lines of South of the Border and See Rock City I guess. Shop after shop in the middle of nowhere along I-90. So now it's bouncing between 107 and 109, we get to Wall and PEOPLE HAVE LEFT THEIR DOGS IN THEIR CARS IN THE PARKING LOT WITH THEIR WINDOWS CRACKED. I freaked at the sight of the first one -- should have called the police, but another couple was watching so we went on in, but my mind was on all the barking I heard. Nothing could last long in this incredible heat. Quite the tourist place, we buzzed through (actually their western store was pretty good) and moved on to some other shops. Across the way I learned from a shop owner that I can go get the police if I see a dog in the car. None of the dumbasses at Wall told me that when I asked how many dogs die out there each year. So I was ready to go get the fuzz but now there was no more barking. I only hope that's because they moved on.

110+ now and we're stopping just north of the Badlands to the Minuteman Missile sites visitor center to find out about the tour. The heat is beyond words: to be out in that HOT blowing heat with no shade -- pure hades -- how do the animals do it? I have no idea. So the tour only takes 6 at a time to the site, there's one ticket left, and when I heard you cram into a small elevator to go down in the ground I quickly decided I'd sit this one out, not a problem. Now we had to kill an hour before that tour so we loitered in a convenience store then drove the 6 miles back on I-90 to the exit. You would never know what was under the ground there a quarter mile from the highway. But I saw a bunch of horses and thought this could be my chance to photograph a hose in the wind, something i've been trying to do since Utah. So after standing around with the tour people trying to find the shade of a telephone pole... forget it, have fun, I'm going up to where we parked the trailer and where the horses are. Where the horses, it turned out, are not confined by a fence and were soon coming over to visit! agh! It was still 110 and here they each come by to check out me and the trailer. It was so cool, but did't know if I'd get bit or what as some just came straight at me. Sweat is pouring out but still I shot and shot. This had to be way better than cramming into a small elevator!

The tour is of the Delta-01 Minuteman Launch Control Facility where 3 Launch Control officers and 6 Security officers lived for 24 hours a day for 30 years watching and waiting to launch 10 Minuteman missiles spread out over the prairie in case of a nuclear attack. There were non-descript buildings on the surface and a metal capsule buried in concrete below where the launch control operations were protected by a 5' thick metal door. Russia had missiles trained on these locations so they need to be able to withstand a nuclear blast. It's a very small capsule and it is somewhat eerie to think about the destructive force capable of being unleashed by the turn of two launch keys.

On to the Badlands, blew through at 5pm and at 109 too hot to stop to photograph. We'll save that for tomorrow. Got a shady spot but again, the hot trailer can't cool down fast so we did laundry -- oh good, a hot room to hang around in near the dryer. Don't have words for this place except it is a bad land... ugh. No place for relief except the KOA store where we wandered in often. Just wanted this day to be over because I think heat stroke is one degree away.

Thursday, Aug 30
Got out of the Badlands -- did I mention we just happened to hit this friggin' heat wave? -- as soon as we could. Will have to come back in the spring or fall sometime, but it was not too interesting anyway, much like our Bisti Badlands. One photo can suffice. The history here is that Sioux chief Bigfoot and his band made a trek through here on his way down to Wounded Knee where he and hundreds of others were killed. So we left and were looking for more ways to beat the heat because if we get to a campground it's too hot to do anything, so I conned him into taking me to the Rapid City Mall. Our filler-night would be at Sheridan Lake, south of us, where we got a nice, yet steep spot above the lake #53. A state park in the trees back in the Black HIlls with no hookups but a little cooler so not as bad as open land. With the help of a squirrel, I gave the new Canon SX 260 a real trial and my worse fears were realized: I don't like this camera. I don't like the focus, how it's held, the purple tint to the images, the high contrast i got shooting white goat butts in the Badlands and the 20x zoom isn't that much more than my old 10x. The decision has now been made: it's going back.

Friday, Aug 31
Left Sheridan Lake to move on to Custer Park for the big 5-day stay. Spot #14E with electric! No water, but we're close to the spigot. Very quiet spot, that is, until we arrived... This is the park where Custer was sent west to survey the land, secretly hoping to find gold, which they did. So much for the Fort Laramie Treaty with the Indians. Hope there's enough to do or we'll move on. Today's high was around 88, too hot to hike. Did the short drive south to the park. Saw Crazy Horse Monument from the highway off in the distance, will go see that soon. Noticing a lot of large and small patches of dead trees from the beetle damage here in the Black Hills, very sad. Saw on the news they're trying to stay ahead of it but it's not easy, as every other state knows. We are camped at Stockade South Campground, near the west entrance, and also hear a small rebuilt historic stockade from the gold rush days when the whites were illegally entering Sioux land to start panning. They needed the stockade for when the injun attacks started; 7 very small cabins inside the walls. Doesn't look like it was much fun. Once again I was hit by a wave of TIRED so after setting up in the warm, with no where to cool off I pretty much just tried to nap off a few hours. Finally by about 4 we hit the road for the park's lower loop, the wildlife drive loop, which looked huge on the map but wasn't too bad, and did the drive. It took about an hour with many stops to photograph buffalo, deer, female bighorn sheep (with shorter horns), pronghorn antelope, and some wild burros, which used to work hauling visitors up to Harney peak and were then released into the wild. They come right up to you very friendly-like, covered in flies poor things, but I think are looking for a handout. Cute anyway. Didn't look like they were short of food. Blue full moon tonight.

Saturday, Sept. 1
This is supposed to be the last hot day: 90. Therefore, as much as we want to hike it will be a car day to visit Mt. Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Memorial. Took the park road north to Rushmore but had a short holdup: some guy chickened out of taking his trailer through a tunnel, tried to back up, and got stuck cross-ways in front of a one-way tunnel. How embarrassing; I noticed his wife wouldn't get out of the car.The rest of us made snide remarks and took pics. Finally got to Mt. Rushmore, packed with visitors but well worth the trip. It really was amazing.
Lunch at Hill City, warm but not killer. bad Mexican at Rico.
On to crazy horse, awesome, good museums, Indian art sales, kitty came out of the artist studio
To Custer for groceries and look around. discovered Dark canyon Highland glug delicious.
watched Lonesome Dove part 1.

Sunday, Sept. 2
Hike day. Chose Sylvan Lake hike #9 to Harney Peak for the overlook of whole area. Very crowded and I couldn't believe who was making the 6-mile round trip hike: all ages, from infants to 70+. Came back down on trail #4 so all together we probably did 7.2 miles. I was pooped. We came out at an unexpected trailhead, Little Devil Tower, and Bill checked his GPS to see where we were and he said the milage was 6.66. SWEAR well he swears. Went to town for a Studebaker car show in Custer but only a few left. Looked around -- they pipe music over speakers on main street, weird -- and came back for the night. Watched Lonesome Dove part 2.

Monday, Sept. 3
Decided to leave Custer a few days early, we've done what we wanted so far. Planned to drive as far as Guernsey, but ended up in Loveland Colorado today! Visited Fort Laramie -- it was 89 hot and sunny degrees --  but wandered around the grounds going in and out of the restored buildings. This place started as Fort William for the fur trade in 1839? and was purchased by the government to become a military post in 1849 to protect travelers on the Oregon Trail. But most importantly, it was the site of the start of the Indian wars with the Gratton massacre, and also the site of the signing of the Treaty of 1868 promising the Black Hills to the Indians, which was never enforced after gold was discovered. Also the Bozeman Trail was part of this. After that, in another 10 miles, we were in Guernsey and saw a sign about Oregon Trail wagon ruts! GO THERE! From there we checked out the state campground and decided it was too hot and continued driving down to Cheyenne. The only campground we found was also hot (on the interstate and jammed), so we kept on driving to Loveland and Boyd Lake State Park. Very nice! We must be back in CO: paved level sites and grass. A nice change. Still so hot today I want to go to RMNP tomorrow where it will only reach 77. So we booked it. Went to Dinner at McGraffs and very tired from a long, baking day.

Tuesday, Sept. 4
Nice short stay in Loveland, and hopefully the last hot day (didn't I say that before?). Moved 35 west to Rocky Mountain National Park for the next 2 nights. A wonderful 75 degrees up here at 8,000 feet and my first headache in weeks.... hmmm is it the altitude? If so, I'm in trouble. But it didn't last, must have been the nauseating curvy drive to get here. Once here, we were able to secure a different spot than we had reserved and it's fabulous! Opens to a big meadow and is surrounded with aspens. Couldn't ax for more. Hiked 6.75 miles from the campground to the Cub Lake. Once at the lake the gray jays, aka camp robbers, started to appear. So we got out a bar and sure enough they'd fly down and sit on your hand for some food. First it was one jay, then came a stellar's jay, then three more camp robbers, then a few ground squirrels, a chipmunk and finally, two DUCKS! I guess everyone gets fed, and expects to get fed, at this point. Felt like Dr. Dolittle. Or Noah. or Ace Ventura in his livingroom. Also saw a snake. But best of all was the elk on the trail coming back. Everyone was tiptoeing around taking pics, including me, but really we just wanted to get back! Hurry up and eat. Came back and it's nice and cool FINALLY outside here as I type this.

Wednesday, Sept. 5
Four nice young bucks (the kind with antlers) came through camp this morning, followed by a gaggle of deer papparazzi who followed them down the road for an hour. Geez you would have thought (? didn’t finish sentence). Today we took an old, one-way gravel Fall River Trail up to the top visitor center, had a cappacino. Pretty busy up there even now after Labor Day. Kinda cool with the wind blowing too, about 58 degrees. Coming back down on the Alpine Drive road when we decided to stop and check out an overlook. Walking out I noticed a man in a Touareg Rally 2010 sweatshirt -- what -- he turns around and it's Rick Smith! Walking toward me is Ann! Talk about a small world. Just a chance meeting at 12,000 feet! They were visiting from Lubbock, like they do every year. Needless to say, we were all dumbfounded. Went to town for a bit, and came back and hiked about two miles on the Fern Trail. Weather not as warm today and by now it was 4pm. Came back to find a note from the Ranger: they had confiscated the Pam spray we left on the picnic table (it was empty), and also chastised us for attracting black bears by leaving out the can, and "burning pine cones and collecting wood." What? We had made a fire last night, with wood we brought, in the dark, and in the morning I had noticed the pine cones around the pit, but they weren't from us -- they were from the previous campers. And we got the sh*t for it! I could tell by the handwriting on the card it was a female ranger, with all her talk on the back that "if everyone burned pine cones then the squirrels would have nothing to eat…" Oh brother! So I wrote on the card, yes we forgot the spray, but the pine cones and wood were there when we got here. The Host did not clean up." There, back at ya! We were so glad to burn our own wood -- we've been dragging it around since the trip to Arizona and haven't been able to burn it due to fire bans all over the place. I didn't mention the picnic table was also pulled way close to the front and propped up on rocks. Oh well, spot #135 was a great one to remember, but make sure your space is clean if you have a fire. They are watching. Took a walk at dusk after dinner and that was Wednesday.

Thursday, Sept. 6
Moving on today to Denver. While packing up the bucks came through again but no one was following them. I thought they'd be back. This time they were more in the sun so I could get a better shot. Short drive to Denver, and it would get up to 92 today. Bill did his heroic job driving the interstates in traffic getting us to Cherry Creek State Park for the night. Did some shopping. Returned the camera, and met Sue for dinner at Saharas, middle eastern cuisine. Part III of Lonesome Dove. Supposed to be cooler tomorrow. That would be nice. We're almost home, figures.

Friday, Sept. 7
Yes it's cooler so far, and overcast.

[end of story, writer did not finish, dumb bitch…]